For those who haven't made the journey, Machu Picchu is not a day trip. It's a flight to Lima and then a flight to Cusco, and then a van to .. I'm not sure where and then a train to the base camp. If you're lucky, you'll grab a room at "Gringo Bills," where the cold water runs cold and the hot water runs cold as well. Giant moths in the middle of the night? ... yes indeed. Coffee the consistency of plaster? ... two cups, please! But once you arrive on top of that mountain and see that stunning city of stone, it all melts away. You are in rarified air and those who traverse these walls will be forever changed. Oh ... and by the way ... on your way out of the gates ... don't forget to stamp your passport!